23 Nov 08 Hitchhikers Guide to Cuba

I wrote this guide to Cuba, a while back last March. I never got around to my ultimate goal, which is to turn it into a wiki for people interested in going to Cuba. So at risk of it never being published I’m going to throw it up here, and hope it’s useful for someone.

Disclaimer: I’ve never been to Cuba. This Guide is entirely fictional.

 

Hitchhikers Guide to Cuba

Paul Rausch

How to break Cuba’s Tourist Apartheid

                Cuba, a tropical island of 12 million situated just 90 miles south of Florida is one of the most diverse and interesting place any couchsurfer can travel to. The people you will be find to be warm, just like the climate and the cities much safer than even the developed world. But at the same time you will find yourself often times frustrated, confused and lost. These are perhaps the most Cuban of the experiences anyone can have on a backpacking trip though Cuba. I am writing this guide assuming that you want to try your absolute best to see the “True Cuba”, instead of the resorts and segregation you will find all over the island. This is not the easiest way to see Cuba and nearly everyone who takes this route will have a breakdown after a few days of being asked for money after every conversation. If you do decide on this route you will find a whole new world in Cuba. One positioned in a unique place, between the first and third world, still clinging to the ideas of the Soviet Union and a socialist paradise that never arrived. You will find people filled with genius, spirit, humour and music. At the same time you will find painful poverty, inequality and opportunistic foreigners. This guide was written by an US Citizen so I will be covering a lot of the things that US Citizens need to know to avoid getting in trouble along the way. All of this information I collected during my own trip, and by no means is any of it guaranteed to always be true, but in my particular case it ended up helping immensely. This guide is for all the people who helped me all the way. Especially, to my friends still in Cuba and those who contributed their own experiences.

                The single most important recommendation I can make to anyone intending to go to Cuba is to learn some Spanish. Just simple phrases like “where is” and “how much will this cost”, will go infinitely far. If you are lucky enough to know someone who speaks Spanish who wants to come, it will make your trip infinitely easier and avoid a lot of problems. Many Cubans speak some English, but you will find that the overwhelmingly majority of people who will talk to you in English will be trying to scam you in one way or another.

The Law

The United State’s economic, commercial and financial embargo of Cuba is codified under the “Cuban Democracy Act”.

History

Cuba’s history is pretty long and very interesting. Especially in terms of its relation to the US and the Cuban Revolution. I would recommend the following Wikipedia articles:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuba

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Cuba

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuban_embargo

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spanish-American_War

 

Getting to Cuba

If you are arriving from the US you will have to fly via a third country. By far the three most popular are Canada, México and the Bahamas. Each have their own advantages are disadvantages.

Mexico – Check http://www.vivaaerobus.com for cheap deals to Mexico from the US. This is very useful for getting to Mexico to catch your flight to Cuba.

Canada – Some Canadian airports also have US Customs posts which means there is a possibility that they might watch for people going directly from Cubana flights onto US flights. Take care to not go directly to your US gate instead try to obfuscate your path slightly.

Bahamas – Nassau is a useful airport primarily for people in the Southeast, especially in Florida where tickets are very cheap and direct. The Nassau airport has regular service via Cubana and BahamasAir. There is an American Pre-Customs clearing station there. Which means that you will be entering the US as a domestic flight instead of an international flight. It is important to not bring back any cigars or rum, the custom agents are primarily looking for these things. Other than that they seem more concerned with the steady flow of holidaymakers.

Once you arrive in your airport of choice, most people will be flying via Cubana. Cubana airlines sells tickets same day for the same price as you would pay in advance. The company that deals with most of Cubana’s bookings is “Havanatur”, which is owned by the Cuban government and has offices in various other countries to facilitate your flight. I recommended cash, for most transactions as they often times will not accept any other form of payment. They charge for virtually any problem you might have so be prepared to pay more. Furthermore, you will be required to buy your tourist card before you board the plane which will cost an additional 25$. If you miss your flight expect to pay from 35$ to 65$. Cubana flies manly Soviet Tupolev and Illyich planes. There are a few De Havillands under the “Aerogaviota” name and a few 737s under lease from Mexico but unless you are flying one of only a few flights you can expect to get to ride on a piece of the Soviet Union.

Money

The biggest problem facing any American visiting the island and many foreigners from all places is the lack of ATMs (Automated Bank Machines). Furthermore any card drawn on a north American bank will not work in Cuba. This means that travellers have to bring all of their money in Cash. This can be dangerous and irritating for travellers used to travelling with little money.

Double Currencies:

Cuba has two official currencies. The system is both ingenious and ludicrous. In one regard it prevents against Cuba’s limited hard currencies reserves being depleted and on the other end it essentially segregates Cuba’s economy. Dollar rich families have much more than Cubans whose survive on CUP salaries.

The two currencies are:

CUC Cuban Convertible Peso – Often times called “dolares”, “Chavitos”, “CUC” or “C.U.C.”.  This is Cuba’s hard currency. You fill find anything which has to be imported, or has a value on the international market to be priced in CUC. Only some Cubans have access to CUC, primarily those in the tourist industry and though will families abroad. Virtually everything priced towards tourists, foreigners, or worth buying will be priced in CUC. Furthermore big cities like Habana and Santiago are primarily priced in CUC, making them expensive to live in.

CUP Cuban Peso – Usually referred to as “Peso Cubano” or “moneda nacional”. Most cubans receive their salary in CUP. Most products and activities geared towards Cubans are priced in CUP. The more you leave the big cities like Habana and Santiago you will find more and more places priced in this currency. There are 24 or 25 CUP in one CUC.

Breaking through into the world “Moneda nacional” world will be the easiest way to get access to everyday Cuban life. Once you have a budget that limits you to CUP you will be forced to find places where locals hang out and avoid receiving special treatment. You will find that Cuban Pesos are more of a token than actually currency in many government provided services. For example the cost of a baseball game is only one peso.

Changing currency -The Cuban government runs a chain of currency exchanges called “CADECA”s they will convert your money for no additional charge and there are a number of them throughout Jose Martí International Airport and most other airports and cities. It is recommended to bring Canadian Dollars or Euros. US Dollars face a 10-20% conversion tax which makes them prohibitively expensive to bring. Furthermore, Bahamanian dollars may face this same penalty so be careful as to not bring them.

Budget – Here are the main factors you should use to calculate your budget. Keep in mind you should bring a lot more than you think you will need. It is very easy to go to Cuba expecting to live cheaply without realising how easy it is to get swindled out of some CUC when you first arrive. Bring much more than you need and travel comfortably. It is much worse than having to worry about having enough to leave the country all the time. At the same time, if you do not have a money you will find yourself having to pursue more “native” forms of entertainment. Furthermore don’t put all your money in one place. If you get stuck in Cuba it is nearly impossible to get money into the country without contacting your embassy. Or if you are an American you will essentially have to admit to being in Cuba illegally. The US Special Interests section does have a particularly good track record of helping Americans in trouble in Cuba.

Tourist Visa – Usually will have to pay for it when you book your flight, it is a 25$ paper that will serve essentially as your passport while in Cuba. The authorities will usually stamp this paper instead of your passport.

Housing: 20-25CUC per room in a casa particular. Slightly more expensive in Habana or if you are looking to rent a very nice house.

Transportation: Approximately 10-15CUC per person for short trips, and 25-50CUC per person for longer distances.

Food and drink: 3-5CUC for person for tourist restaurants, 20-40CUP in Cuban restaurants. Allocate 10-15CUC per day for food and drink should be enough for someone trying to stay away from touristy places. Split a bottle of rum to save money, and spend the remainder on water.

Entertainment – Your biggest entertainment if you decide to stick to Cuban fare will be rum, dominos and baseball these costs virtually nothing and will give you a good opportunity to meet locals. If you decide to go for touristy things like caberets, which can be quite the experience be prepared to pay 25CUC and up.

Souvenirs – The best souvenirs to bring back from Cuba are fotos, they are the least likely to arouse suspicion. However, you can bring back CDs, Art, Books and other intellectual property without any fear from customs. They may question you but these things are not covered under the embargo. They can cost from very little to Western prices in specifically targeted tourist stores.

Airport Tax – The Cuban government will charge you 25CUC to leave the country. Make sure you have it or you will not be allowed to leave!

 

Accommodation

Casa Paticulares – In recent years the government has started to allow people to rent out rooms in their houses. They pay a very large monthly few to have this ability so don’t feel like the CUC prices are too high. Unfortunately there is very few ways to avoid staying in Casas and it is usually your best way to get some view in a Cuban home. The homes you stay at will mostly be quite nice be it quite different from what you might be used to. Most of the people who own these places have family abroad that help them, be sure to ask them because they are always excited to talk about the world outside of Cuba. Legal Casa particulars will have the below sign posted above their door. When you decide you want to rent the room they will ask you for your passports and tourist cards. They will write up a receipt and ask you to sign. Make sure to ask for the cost of the rooms in advance. The typical going rate for a room outside of Habana is 20CUC a night. Sometimes it is possible to pay 15CUC but rarely. Often times it is possible to rent entire houses for approximately 45CUC a night. There is a maximum of two people per room so if you have three people you will be required to have two rooms. Furthermore, it is not solely a matter of “the government getting its money”. The Ministry of hte Interior wants to know where you are, and the owner of the house will be required to report the information to the MINIT within 24 hours of you booking the room. Make sure to shop around. You will find that often times when you get off of a bus you will be accosted will a line of people screaming at you and offering you a casa. Although many of theses are fine places you can virtually ask anyone and they will know someone with a house. Often times it is assumed that this person will receive a commission which will be added to the price. The most important thing is that you constantly ask questions and assume nothing. Many times the most convenient way to find housing is to ask your host if she knows anyone in the next time you will be going to. They almost all known each other and will make a few phone calls on your behalf. Most of the time, you will find your house and host to be very hospitable and very concerned about how comfortable you are. There is no time too late to come back, they are required to let you in at anytime however many people will give you a door to their front door and to the room. The blue symbol below is the kind for tourists, the much less common red symbol are people authorised to rent rooms to Cubans in much cheaper CUP prices.

 

 

 

Hotels – Definitely are definitely the most expensive and least advisable option. You will find the prices to be on par with international prices as well as being much more restrictive. For example, Cubans are not allowed into hotel rooms and any woman attempting to enter the room of a foreigner will be arrested for suspected prostitution.

Ilegal Homes – Some people rent rooms out of their houses without paying the government license. They can face a potentially large fine of 1200CUC if they are caught but many of them operate without problems. The biggest danger is to them not you so as a foreigner you should not be too concerned. You may often times find these rooms to be very permissive, quite nice, and sometimes quite cheaper than official places. Although very often difficult to find, be weary of people offering you a room in their own home. Although it would be an excellent experience they might not understand the gravity of being caught with foreigners and the ease at which jealous neighbours might report them to the “Multa”.

The Cuban Bathroom

Normally when outside of your native country you might find plumbing to be a bit unique or at times strange but in Cuba the word “inventado” (invented) could never be more real. Don’t be surprised if you are completely confused by the quantity of valves and the lack of water pressure. Often times many Cuban homes use a pump to pump water to the roof. This fixes the problem of slow water pressure by feeding the water via gravity. However, in many casas they might forget to explain this to you or forget to turn it on. If you have weak water pressure, do not be too shy to ask. The term “No hay aqua” (no eye ag-wa) is usually enough for them to realise what is wrong and quickly turn on the pump.

Showers – Hot water heaters are a rarity in Cuba, however most of your casas will have a shower head that heats water on the spot. There is often times also a little hose going from the head which will have hot water if the head is turned to “caliente”. Pull the small plastic piece outward from the middle to use it. The head will be attached to a mangled collection of wires which are surely quite dangerous. Avoid these and avoid touching the shower head once you turn on the water it very often will shock you. These types of heating devices are common throughout South America and are sometimes referred to as “widow makers”.

Toilet – The state of Cuban toilets is probably the most terrifying and confusing part of most experiences in Cuba. Toilet paper is virtually unheard of in public places as it is often stolen. It is very advisable that you bring your own as it will serve for a number of purposes. Furthermore, toilets seem to have long lost their toilet seats. A concept that seems very normal for us is almost unheard of there. Not even in the International Airport are there toilet seats. Some casas will have them and you will be grateful for them but for the most part they are a rarity. Sometimes public toilets will not work at all, will not have working flushing handles or will require to be filled by turning a valve. They can be very complex and confusing and some might need to be flushed by bucket. You will find a number of clever fixes to toilets throughout the country. In accordance to the spirit of “inventado”.

Plumbing – The water pressure coming from the state water pipes is sometimes very weak. To compensate for this many houses will pump water up to large reservoirs on the roof so that gravity will assist in the water pressure. Unfortunately many casas will not explain this to you and forget to turn the pump on that fills the reservoir. If your room does not have water or you cannot figure out how to get pressure ask the host before getting frustrated and trying every valve you can find. More often than not there is a switch that needs to put flipped.

Transportation

Camiones – Literally just converted trucks. They usually only cost a few CUP to ride and are probably the most Cuban way to travel. Sometimes the man in charge of accepting payment might give you trouble for being a tourist. Insist that you are a student studying in Cuba and that you have no other method of getting around. You will find Camiones to be hot, cramped, uncomfortable, and full of Cuban culture. Folk songs and flirting are a common occurance. Be careful with your belongings, keep your bag close to you and watch your wallet. A foreigner on a camion is easy prey and you would be reckless to not be careful. At the same time it is probably the cheapest and most unique of the ways to see Cuba.

“Wawas” (Buses) – Buses come in a few different types in Cuba.

Astro – Theses buses are primarily for Cubans. They sell out usually a month in advance of the actual day of travel. Many of them keep two seats open as “hot seats” in case a foreigner wants to ride one. I recommend against using them, as you will be taking a seat from a Cuban and still paying more than you would for a Viazul bus.

Viazul – This is the most common method of travel for foreigners on the island. It is the state run bus system for foreigners. It is very reliable, not just for Cuban standards. You can usually expect to be on time. They provide stops for lunch and dinner when suitable and provide movies during longer trips. The prices on the website are for the most part completely out of date but provide a basis for what you should expect to pay. For shorter trips the price is usually around 8-9 CUC. For longer trips between 25-50CUC.

Other Buses – There exists a number of other “bus stations” which locals might know about to get places. Many times they are camiones sometimes they are old buses which run certain routes. Ask locals about them because their routes and times are much more irregular than the national bus lines.

Maquinas (Ilegal Taxis) – This is probably one of the most exciting ways to make short hops between cities. Although not practical for long trips “Maquinas” provide a wonderful insight into Cuban cars, the countryside and gives you an opportunity to converse one on one with your driver. If you can negotiate you can often times save a few dollars over viazul when travelling with a few people.  Just as with bargaining with anyone never be afraid to walk away and get an offer from someone else. You will usually find the first offer to be 5CUC over the actually going rate. These types of cars almost always wait across from the Bus or train station. Walk around and you are guaranteed to be offered a number of taxis. Keep negotiating until you get the car you want at the lowest price. There are a number of different options to choose from. The nicest cars are European Imports, rarely will you get offered one of those. Mostly you will be offered a trip in a Lada or a rebuilt American Yankee Tank. Remember however that these journeys are illegal. The driver can potentially get in trouble if he is stopped by a “Punto de Control”. If he is found trying to transport foreigners illegally you will probably be pulled out of the car. Nothing will probably happen to you but your driver will most likely be fined heavily. You could potentially be left stranded if that happens. However most of these drivers have been doing these rides for years and know the police officers and the techniques necessary to not be caught. Don’t be surprised if the driver asks if he can pick up some Cubans to put in the front seat to prevent suspicion and make a few extra dollars.

El punto del Amarillo – “The point of the man in yellow”. This is a common way for Cubans to get around. It is essentially a man or women dressed in a yellow government uniform. They will be carrying a bucket with a handle. Cubans deposit a few CUP in the box in order to secure a ride in the direction they are going. The “Amarillo” has the authority to stop any cars with Blue license plates. These are cars owned by the government. The other “yellow” and “red” cars are private. Make sure to speak with locals about which Punto goes in which direction. It might be necessary to tip the Amarillo to ensue prompt service.

Autostop – Autostop is more or less hitchhiking with a Cuban twist. Next to bus stations and at other strategic points Cubans will gather around waiting for an open truck or an empty bus travelling in their desired direction of travel. It is the least reliable method of travel. Don’t be surprised if you wait for hours and not get a ride. Many buses intended for tourists will at times run completely empty. If this happens the driver will stop to pick up the people waiting at the autostop. However if there is a single foreigner in the bus, the bus will not stop. You might see this happen as you wait, buses only at quarter capacity leaving. If you are in rural places it is at times effective to hold out money in the direction of travel. This offering to the driver might make it more likely he stops to pick you up. This method is an exercise in a very Cuban quality, patience. But can be rewarding if you get a ride as it will cost very little and you can converse with people while waiting.

Coches _– Whereas in some latin-american countries the word “coche” has come to mean “car”, the original meaning remains true in Cuba. Coches are horse drawn carriages which are very normal for getting around some Cuban cities. The price usually varies slightly but will usually range around 1-5CUP per person depending on if it’s a set route or if you are renting the whole coche. You will often hear the driver shout and repeat “AY-O” which is short for “Caballo”, or the nickname of the horse. If you are sick of polluting internal combustion engines Coches are a great alternative to walking in cities. You will often times that Coches gather in a particular place. Ask a local where you can expect to find them. Or you can flag one down going in your direction of travel.

Taxis – There are a few different types of taxis. Legal, and Illegal. The most common legal ones are Panataxi and OkTaxi. Panataxi is the most common form of taxi for Cubans. They are usually ladas with Panataxi painted on the side and cost relatively little to take. Most drivers will expect much more of you since you are a foreigner. Be prepared to tip but realize that the price on the meter is the correct price to pay. Usually it is a good idea to always negotiate a price beforehand. If the driver complains about gas prices or the price he is getting paid. Remember that the license to be a taxi driver is only 250CUP a month, approximately 10CUC. Furthermore they receive cheap gas from Venezuela which makes their arguments essentially mute. One thing you can do is negotiate a very long tour of the city for that same 10/20CUC he will normally try to get out of you. Don’t be afraid to negotiate, they might come off harsh during the negotiating but you will usually find them very warm and talkative once in the car. OkTaxis on the other hand are specifically for tourists, are much nicer and much more expensive. You can expect to take one of them from the Airport to your casa. Usually the prices will be more similar to US/European prices however you can usually be assured a driver who speaks at least some English and a comfortable ride. Finally you will probably always get offers by locals to use their car illegally as a taxi to make a couple of dollars. Although this might be a very viable way to get between cities, I would not advise it within a big city unless you look particularly Cuban. It’s is a big risk to the owner of the car that he might not realise. Although as with most things you could probably get away with it.

Cocotaxis – These tiny round yellow travelling lemons are a really neat way to get around in Habana. They are relatively cheap for foreigners and are useful for intermediate distances. They are not very big but they are definitely a viable way of getting to the bus station for example if you are travelling light.

Bicitaxis – You will find these all over Cuba. They are essentially bicycles modified to hold one or two people. They often times have batteries attached to them which play a cycle of latin music. They cost very little and the person peddling will definitely enjoy a tip for his hardwork. They are a useful way to get short distances however very small.

Food and Drink

Restaurants

There are few types of restaurants you will come across.

Paladares / Street Stalls – Paladares are small restaurants run out of people’s homes. Or out of stalls on the street. It seems like to tend to congegrate in busy neighbourhoods and across from train/bus stations. In my personal opinion they serve the most reasonable and authentic food one can buy in CUP. The prices are very reasonable for the amount of food you get, a typical plate will run between 15-25CUP. Typically you will get a plate of rice with pork, a toston or platano.  Sometimes if you are lucky a tomato and some cabbage or lettuce. If you see “picante”, home-made hot sauce on the counter make sure to grab it. If not make sure to ask for it, most stalls have it behind the counter and will gladly lend you the bottle of oily home made sauce filled with peppers. It has a sweet hot taste, depending on its maker, and goes a long way in lubricating a big mound of “arroz moro” or “arroz congrí” (black beans and rice).

You’ll also be able to find all other types of vendors that will sell whatever street food they can get their hand on. You’ll see the same few types of foods over again.

Croquetas - (1-5CUP) are little fried sticks of flour stuffed with pork or chicken and fried. These are everywhere, especially baseball games. They are cheap, greasy and not bad at all going down. In my opinion of all the street food these get me sick the quickest. You’ll see a wide range of things put in croquettas, making them particularly dangerous compared to other food. At the same time they omniprescence make them affordable, quick and portable.

Pizzas - which are sold for 5-10CUP, these pizzas are entirely dissimilar to what you are probably use to. They are small around 6in (15cm) across. They have very little tomato sauce, and are covered with an entirely peculiar mozzerella like hybrid-cheese. When I asked what kind of cheese it was, the answer was matter of fact “Queso inventado”, or “Invented Cheese”. It takes the concept of Government cheese to a whole new level.

Bocaditos - (5-10CUP) These are omniprescent in the capitol of La Habana, but present all over the country. Little stands on the side of the road will cut up chunks of pork and fill them into little government rolls. Sometimes if you are lucky enough, you’ll get a tomato or piece of onion. You can find these Bocaditos or Little Sandwiches stuffed with a lot of things in them. Pork, Fried Fish, Croquettas, Hamburguesa. The hamburguesa or “Hamburger” is a curve ball. Because of the illegalisation of consumption of Beef by Cubans, the patties are made of out ground pork. Not entirely untasty. You’ll find at certain times these little stalls will run out of bread before they run out of anything else. Meaning they’ll keep on going selling the meat on a BYOB (Bring your own Bread) basis. There is a lot of variance between bocadito vendors, some will sell skippy portions of old meat. Others will have healthy portions, with tomato on fresh bread. If you find a vendor that sells a particularly good sandwich, wrap a couple up in newspaper. (The ever present copy of the Party Newspaper Granma, makes a particularly good wrapping). Save them for a bus ride or a long day, it can be really hard to find a good restaurant and more than enough a bocadito and a banana can go a long way.

Government Chains – El Rápido is a government run and owned fast-food restaurant. It’s probably best known for the phrase “No Hay”. Meaning “We don’t have that”. It can reliably provide you several things. 1. Air Conditioning, 2. Rum, 3. Plastic Cups, 4. Condoms, in that order. Outside of these things, don’t trust it for anything, especially not the fried chicken that it supposedly sells.

Casa particulares – Most houses will prepare you a meal as well. From what I was told by most visitors they found the best food on the whole island within their casa. More oftan than not the propreitar will offer you Langosta (Lobster), Res (beef), and whatever you could want. This usually means a black market connexion that will often be flaunted without a moments hesitation. The food in casa particulares has the unique position of being both home made, authentic, while also not being hindered by the harsh limitations of neccesity most cubans have to deal with. Meals will be pricy compared to your other cheaper options, (5-10CUC), but at the same time the quality is most definitely asurred, the convenience is perfect and your options will be much more varied.

Other unique Cuban treats

Markets – As a foreigner coming to Cuba I had the impression that there would be huge quantities of fresh fruit everywhere. But eventually I realised that fruit was limited primarily to markets and illegal black market vending on the street. You can usually find them by asking a local where there is an “agro”. They are usually only open during the day and you can find a number of products which are in season. Make sure to shop around, at times it is possible to find prices and quality vary a lot between vendors standing right next to each other. Don’t be surprised if someone approaches you in front of an Agro trying to sell you something. Bananas and lots of other produce gets bought and sold this way all the time. Sometimes they will ask you to walk a block or so to avoid the official watching over the market. Be careful, this can be a ruse to pick-pocket or mug you. But more often than not it’s just a vendor trying to sell a bag of bananas without a license.

Water – The bottled water of Cuba is Ciego Montego. The price of it can vary tremendously, so be sure to buy it at supermarkets during the day. Many places will be out of the 1,5 litre bottles so when you find one that sells them cheaply (0,80CUC) be sure to grab a couple. Most importantly save the bottles. They will be immensely useful later as most Cubans bring their own container for beverages. If you decide you don’t need a bottle or you already have one to fill, instead of throwing it out many people will gladly take them. If you decide to drink the tap water many people do not have problems, including myself. Although there have been cholera outbreaks in the past and boiled water is much preferable, it is possible to drink from the tap without too much fear. Some people who might not be used to Caribbean or tropical water, will have a higher chance of getting sick. There is no shame in playing it safe and drinking bottled water.  But all and all Cuba puts lots of pride in providing safe drinking water, so the risks are lower than many developing countries.

Guarapo – Guarapo is a drink made from the pressed juice of sugar cane. You can find it all over Cuba in stalls with a machine designed just for the purpose. It is very cheap and if you are smart you will fill up a 1,5 litre bottle of it to drink throughout the day. It starts to ferment fairly quickly so it is a good idea to drink it quickly. The best place to get it is in the countryside, so if you design to rent a car/taxi make sure to stop at one of the stands on the side of the road. You can expect to pay about 1-2 CUP for a “vasito” in the city, or the same price for a much larger glass in the countryside.

Refrescos – In Cuba this term seems to have a double meaning. Not only does it apply to cola products but also to a powdered based drink served at many stalls. You can buy the same powder in a supermarket for about 1,20CUC and it will make a huge quantity of drink when mixed in a 1,5 litre bottle. For a 350ml can of Cola or Lemon (Sprite) you can expect to pay 0,50CUC at an El Rápido or government store. The powdered drink is usually sold at street stalls for 1-2 CUP for a small glass usually served in a sawed off beer bottle.

Refrescos de Oriente -

Batidos – Batidos are a Cuban specialty and probably one of the few foodstuffs on the island that will blow you away. Make sure to stop at every street side stall that sells Batidos and order at least one cup of every flavor they have. You will not be disappointed. Batidos are Milkshakes usually made from a simple mixture of milk, ice, cane sugar and a flavouring. They are the best way to taste Cuba’s finest products at once, as none of these are in short supply. You can usually expect to pay about 5CUP for a small “vasito” or glass which as with refrescos is usually a washed glass or sawed off beer bottle. Don’t be afraid to just order one of every flavour and share with your travel buddy, the tastes are unique, and very easy to like.

The most common flavours you will encounter are the following:

Mamey – An unique latin American fruit that has a sweet tropical taste.

Guanabana – Known as the soursop in English. Somewhat similar to a citrus strawberry and pineapple mixed together.

Trigo – Spanish for “Wheat”, Trigo batidos tasted like malted wheat. They have an almost sweet cereal flavour, difficult to describe, but my personal favourite.

Guayaba – Guava

Helados (Ice cream) –

 

Alcohol and Tobacco

Although there is not much variety of alcohol in Cuba, it is an awesome value and of very high quality. Be sure to be careful where you buy your alcohol. By far the most common thing locals do is buy a bottle together and split it. Go to a supermarket during the day or an El Rápido at night to get price control bottles.

Rum – Rum comes in many different types, flavours and costs. Although most locals will go for the cheap stuff, a bottle of aguardiente or something home-made you can afford to try most of the local rums. The rum has a very sweet and soft taste, nothing like most rum and can be drunk straight from the bottle without any difficulty. Most Cubans will buy a bottle put it in the middle of the table and drink until it is gone. Buy a bottle daily and make sure you make friends with it at night. There are a number of brands and types. Typically there are no tricks to the prices as the more expensive bottles taste better than the cheaper ones.

Beer –

Bucanero – This beer seems to be the favourite of Cuba. It has slightly more alcohol than for example Cristal and proudly displays this on the can with the label “Fuerte” (strong). They cost 1CUC from most stores. And as cheap as ,80CUC from supermarkets.

Cristal – Costing usually exactly the same as Bucanero it has a similar light taste but a bit lighter than Bucanero. Not nearly as popular but you will see it everywhere.

Tínima – You will find this brew in the oriente (eastern) part of the island. It has a sweet tropical taste and is my personal favourite of all the beers on the island. It is the hardest to find but if you see it be sure to try it.

Mayabe –Mayabe is the cheapest of all the beers available. It can usually be bought for 15-20CUP or ,60CUC. It’s taste is very similar to Cristal/Bucanero but I actually prefer it. Its slightly cheaper and you will find many locals drinking it wherever it is available to save the extra money.

Draught – Sometimes you will find local bars which have draught beer. Although sometimes these may be from a state brewery most of the time they are going to be a local brew. They can range is flavour from sweet to malty and everything you can imagine. The going price seems to be 6-7CUP for a 350ml glass. Bring a 1,5 litre jug and fill it up, normally it will cost only a little more than one CUC (30CUP).

Mojitos

Cigars

Cigarettes

Communication

Cuban is by design very difficult to get information in and out of. Although the quality of connexions might be the fault of lack of hardware and quality submarine links. The Cuban government intentionally maintains international calls and internet very expensive.

Internet – Internet is very expensive in Cuba, and dreadfully slow. Before you leave for Cuba check to see if your email provider offers a low-speed version of its page. You will find that many new Web 2.0 pages will either run very slowly or will time-out and not load at all. An example is Gmail-lite at http://gmail.pirana0.com/ Expect to pay 3CUC for 30minutes. There is no discount for buying more time at once. If you will be spending a long time in Cuba it might make more sense to buy a card which has internet time on it this way you can log out and save your minutes when the connexion is unbearable. Wireless internet is unheard of outside of only the nicest hotels. Often times the computers are configured to not accept flash drives so be prepaid to not be able to use them.

Telephone – There are two types of telephones in Cuba. One kind which functions primarily in CUC only use telephone cards. These are useful if you have a card or if you need to make an international call. You can often times find payphones which accept CUC coins in hotels and other very touristy places. Calls outside of Cuba usually require a prepaid tourist card. They come in denominations of 10 and 20CUC and have the instructions for dialing on the front of the card. Expect to pay around 1CUC per minute to contact the US.

On the other hand you will find CUP phones all over the country. These phones accept  “moneda nacional” and are very cheap to make calls within the city or within Cuba. If you don’t have change for them many Cubans will often offer to let you use their card or lend you a few centavos. It is common courtesy that when you finish your call if you still have a balance on the phone to pass it to the next person. This is because the machines do not return change.

Night Life/Entertainment

Pelota/Beisbol – Typically a game will only cost 1 CUP. At times they offer foreigner seats which will put you up front with the “fanatics”, and they can run you substantially more. However the 1CUP free seating is definitely a more “Cuban experience”. You will find that Cuban baseball has a lot more interaction between players and fans. If you identify yourself as a foreigner, often times you can get the opportunity to meet the players.

Sex – Before you go, on the plane ride over, and nearly every local will advise you “watch out for the girls in Cuba”. It’s not so much an actual warning as much as it is a friendly jest as to their stereotypical ferocity. Sex is a bit of a national sport in Cuba. Many foreigners go to Cuba just for this reason and Cubans are pretty open about how the entire system works. It is very common for men and women to pick each other up. As a foreigner watch out for Jineteras, who are essentially prostitutes or “good-time” girls.  Although many foreigners go to Cuba especially for these women, there are certainly women who will be interested in you for other reasons. Condoms are all over Cuba you can often purchase them wherever you see the “Vigor” sticker. They typically cost 1CUP, and it is not uncommon for friendly locals to produce two or three out of a pocket.

Jineteros/Jineteras/Scams

Currency Conversion

Prostitution

“Friendly locals”

Referrals

Taxi Drivers

Cigars

Cities

La Habana

Santa Clara

Trinidad

Holguín

Bayamo

Santiago de Cuba

Other Information:

http://havana.usinterestsection.gov/index.html

 

Reader's Comments

1. Petrol Leaf Blower | 24 Nov 2010 1212:50 pm

   the internet is always the source of cheap stuffs, you can buy cheap electronics, cheap softwares and other stuffs *,;

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